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 Installing Your Spa Pack

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Posts : 66
Join date : 2009-07-08
Age : 53
Location : Tampa Bay

Installing Your Spa Pack Empty
PostSubject: Installing Your Spa Pack   Installing Your Spa Pack EmptyWed Jul 08, 2009 10:14 pm

Starting out:

The first thing to remember is, as long as a few conditions are met, you are not bound to the setup of the pump, controller, etc, as it is received. The pump can face right or left. It does not have to live on the base it is shipped with. As long as the heater is on the DISCHARGE side of the pump you can locate the pump however you like. We ship the product on the base to stabilize it in shipping. You don’t have to use the base if it makes the product too tall, too wide or too deep.

Identify the suction, return and blower lines on your spa.

The suction line on your spa comes from the skimmer (or skim filter) and the “drain fitting." These are usually tee’d together into one line that enters the “suction port” of the pump. This is the connection located at the very front in the center or “eye” of the pump.

The “return” lines on your spa go back to the jets. From the top of the pump the water will discharge and pass through the heater, possibly a filter and then “return” to the spa via the jets.

The blower line obviously leads to the injector manifold in the seats or it may be a single pipe that disappears into the shell itself. It is there only to carry air to the spa.


Glue Basics:
Clean the parts to be glued with clear PVC cleaner. Apply PVC Glue, a full dauber wide, with full coverage; to the male pipe and the female fitting. Insert the pipe fully with a slight twisting motion.

Union Fittings:
Unions are the screw on type. Connecting fittings you most likely have on your old pump and possibly your heater. New unions are included with the pack but you may find you don’t need them.

If your pump unions fit the pump, which many do, you don’t have to change them, just screw them onto your new pump. If you happen to have a spa that is presently hard plumbed, or with unions that don’t fit, you’ll have the new ones to plumb in. They make life easy, even for non plumbers! The pipe simply glues into the “tail piece” and then the nut tightens down over the connection on the pump. An o-ring inside the tail piece seals against the pump or heater manifolds as you screw down the nut. Be sure you glue your pipe into the union with the nut in place or you’ll be cutting it apart to get it on! No glue, silicone, joint compound or teflon tape is required on the male threads of the pump fitting.

The o-rings are lightly pre-lubricated at the factory. If you like, it never hurts to add a little more, but it probably isn’t required.

Unions should thread on easily once the tail piece lines up to the receiving part properly. Try snug hand tight first. You may find it is enough. If you need a little more, turn VERY gingerly with channel locks. It shouldn’t take much. HINT…if you are using the old unions, try replacing the o-rings with the ones from the new unions! There are also union fittings on the heater which make plumbing from the pump to the heater and then to the jets and easy task.

Hooking up
Pump and Heater:
Plumb the suction port of the pump to the suction line from the spa. The pump can be moved or turned however it works.

Plumb the discharge of the pump to the heater manifold on top of the controller. Plumb the discharge of the heater to the pipe that goes back to the jets. This line may go through the filter first. NOTE…it is very important to plumb the heater on the pressure (discharge) side, the pressure switch will not activate the heater if plumbed on the suction side. It is recommended to use shutoff valves on both sides of the pump and heater so it can be serviced even with water in the spa. When finished plumbing, plug pump cord into the receptacle on right side of the controller.

Install the blower to the blower pipe WITHOUT PVC GLUE (the fumes can ignite and explode inside your blower pipe). Just jam it on the pipe. If it tends to blow off, a set screw can be used to keep it on the pipe. It is essential to have a check valve or Hartford loop for the blower. Without the check valve, the blower can flood and be an electrical hazard. Plug blower cord into controller receptacle on right side of the controller.

Spa Side Controls, (if purchased):
Will have to be mounted to the spa shell or surrounding area. A template is provided for hole cutting. The the thermostat sensor fits behind the heater manifold in a shielded holder. The plug goes into the receptacle on the right side of spa controller/heater. The rocker switch on the side needs to be in the TDI position for Tri Delta or TecMarc Spa side controls and LGI or Pat for Len gordon or Spa Patrol versions.

Air Buttons:
May be installed on the shell itself using a hole saw or installed into the cabinet or a surrounding area. Be sure to check behind the hole for obstructions before drilling!

Electrical Requirements and Instructions:
Always check with your local authorities regarding electrical codes in your area. Some areas require electrical professionals to install some or all of the wiring for hot tubs. Be sure you are in compliance with local laws.

The 120 volt Spa Pack
Plug the provided cord into a 20amp dedicated 120 volt outlet. This means that the spa is the only circuit on the breaker, therefore, it is “dedicated.” Branch circuits are not acceptable because they don't provide enough current for the spa to run properly. This causes premature relay failure and breaker tripping

240 Electrical Conversion
All 240 volt controllers require a 4 wire service: 2 hots, neutral and ground. Be certain wire sizes from main breaker to spa breaker are of the proper size for the length of the run! When making connections on the terminal strip make sure all wires are secure and tightly fastened.

*The NEC now requires GFCI breaker protection on all spa and hot tub circuits wired 240 volts.
Check your local requirements!

30amp 240 volt Conversion (minimum wire size #10)
Follow instructions in owners manual. Do NOT change the amp toggle from 30 to 50amps. At the 30amp setting the heater will heat at 240 volts but only with the low speed pump.

50amp Conversion (minimum wire size# 8 )
Same as above but switch the toggle to 50 amp. The only function of the toggle switch is to allow the heater to heat with the high speed pump. This can only be done with a 50 amp service.

Air tube connections
Connect your air tubes from the buttons on your spa side to the nipples on the right side. We get many calls with the frequently asked question: "But which air tube goes on what switch?" Funny thing.. you arent going to hurt a thing if you just hook it up and press a button to see what turns on BUT... for all the unadventurous out there, From top to bottom. Pump, Blower Light.

If you have a spa side control
The rocker switch on the side of the contol.. the one that has the TDI LGPAT tag on it. This switch needs to be in the TDI position If you have a TecMark or Tri Delta spaside control. If your spa side is a Len Gordon or Spa Patrol Brand you rock the switch to that position.
If you do not have a spaside control it doesn't matter which position the switch is in.

Start up Procedures

After the spa is filled to the normal water level, midpoint on the skimmer, you are now ready to start it up! First, turn all thermostats to the LOWEST position before starting! Also check pressure filter lids or canisters to be sure they are securely closed, opening any air bleedoff valves. OPEN shut off VALVES, if installed. Check for snugness of all unions. Switch the rocker switch on the front of the controller to time clock. Pull up a few trippers and rotate the time clock CLOCKWISE until the low speed pump comes on. It may take a few moments to prime. When you can visually VERIFY consistant flow in the spa from the jets, you can turn up the thermostat for the heater. The heater contactor will engage and the heat light should come on. You can now try the jet button for high speed pump and check for proper blower operation if installed.

Congratulations! you done it....


Flow problems:
Are your valves open? If so, air locks can occur when the spa has been empty during your installation. If you have no flow, but, the pump is running, turn it off and loosen the union fitting on the suction side of the pump. If air hisses out, let it until water starts to come out, tighten the unions back up and turn the pump back on.

Heater problems:
Is the heater plumbed to the pressure side of the pump? NO Flow = NO Heat! Don’t even try to turn on your heater unless the pump is pumping!

120 volt spa packs heat at an approximate rate of 1.5 to 2 degrees per hour. A 24 hour initial heat up is common for 120 volt setups. Set the rocker switch on the front of control panel for temperature and turn the thermostat to the maximum (maximum temperature is 104 degrees). Let it run and it will cycle off once it reaches the temperature to maintain.

240 volt spa packs heat approximately 4 to 6 degrees an hour. It is still recommended for initial heat up to switch the rocker switch to temperature so it will heat up to the maximum. Then if desired, the rocker can be set back to time clock and allowed to run for the time it will take to reach the temperature you would like to use. You can also, simply maintain a temperature by setting the rocker to the temperature and the heater and low pump will cycle off and on as needed to maintain the desired setting.
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Posts : 53
Join date : 2013-02-27
Age : 28

Installing Your Spa Pack Empty
PostSubject: Re: Installing Your Spa Pack   Installing Your Spa Pack EmptyThu Mar 21, 2013 3:55 am

nice sharing thanks for the post... Smile
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